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Vorgrut's Paint Stripping Tutorial

original thread ↗

NOTE: This is an excerpt from my gnoblog, where I am stripping paint off of my old, and partially completed ogre army, and giving them a fresh start.  I wrote this bit to report on what I've been up to, but also as a tutorial for those that may be curious about doing this with their own models.


PAINT STRIPPING (Part 1):

To start off with the rebirth of my Ogres, I determined that I really needed to start over.  The reason being is that I had tried several different paint schemes (4 or 5 different flesh tones for example) so that the few models that were painted, were starting to get a little "clumpy".  While any ogre will appreciate a little clumpyness around the mid section, as a hobbyist, I knew that these models would look terrible if I didn't strip the paint off of them and bring it back down to bare plastic and start over all together.

After searching around the internet, and a few experiments of my own, I came up with the following way of stripping paint off of my plastic models, and it seemed to work fairly well.  If you are planning on doing this for your own minis you will need the following supplies:

1) Simple Green, it comes in 22oz spray bottles or gallon jugs
2) A couple of plastic cups, I used "Beer Pong" cups.  Don't ask
3) An old toothbrush, in my case I used one of those cheap electric ones with the vibrating bristles
4) A small scraper, I used the GW sculpting tool and a dental pick
5) Another "dipping" tub for rinsing the models
6) Papertowels


* The following pictures were staged after the fact and not during the process.  I didn't think of documenting this part until after I was already done.


STEP 1:
Pour ½ inch, or 1 centimeter, of Simple Green into the cup.  Add warm water until the cup is from ⅔ to ¾ full.


PIC: Cup on the left with ½" of Simple Green, cup on the right with water added to the Simple Green


STEP 2:
Dunk the mini.  I let them soak overnight, but in the end they only need about 5 to 6 hours.  If you let the mini's soak too long, as in a week or so, the plastic does get soft (just ask my ebay purchased Imperial Guard troops), so a few hours is all you need.  Dunk them before heading to bed and they'll be ready to go by morning.

In this case, because these are plastic, they tend to float. You can try wedging them into the cup on their side, or even try to weigh them down, however, in the end I found the simplest solutions was to flip them upside down. Any sand from your basing will come off at this stage.

PIC: Base up Mini



I initially set up 5 soaking cups but then added 5 more realizing it would take too long otherwise.  If you are doing models with a smaller base, you can get 5 or 6 in these cups, but if you're doing a bigger project such as 100 Clan Rats, you could use a 9"x13" pan and just dump them all in the "pool" for a swim.

PIC: An army of cups for my army




See part 2 for the scrub down...

-- Vorgrut -- :?
How do you add your Gnoblars to your signature?
Continued from Part 1


PAINT STRIPPING (Part 2):

STEP #3: Scrub down
After their soak, I took them out and hit them with the toothbrush, working over a mat of paper towels.  This part gets pretty messy and little flicks of Simple Green and paint will fly into your coffee cup, or onto your iMacs screen if you're trying to watch a movie while doing this.  Ask me how I know.  Wear some old clothes and some glasses to protect your eyes.

The bulk of the paint will either peel off or scrub off in less than a minute with the toothbrush, and your models will be about 80% clean at this point.  You could re-primer coat them now, but you may lose some definition due to paint clogged details.

PIC: Ogre after initial scrubbing.  Maybe 80% clean


PIC:  Ogre after initial scrub with flash to show how much gets left behind.



STEP 4:  Getting Picky
As you have noticed, there is still quite a bit of paint stuck into the details after the initial scrub down.  I decided to break out the GW sculpting tool and a dental pick and got to work cleaning them up a bit more.

PIC: Left ogre is initial scrub only.  The middle has a little bit of the detail cleaning, while the ogre on the right has seen a few minutes (maybe 5) of work with the pick.


PIC:  3rd Ogre after a couple of minutes with the GW sculpting tool and dental pick. About 90-95% cleaned



STEP 5: Soak in the hot tub
Finally, to get the last of the Simple Green, left over paint bits, and residue off of the model prior to the primer coat, I rinsed the models in lukewarm water.  The water gets really nasty pretty quick and you will need to change it out fairly often.  As stated before this picture is an after the fact shot, simply here as a demonstration piece.

PIC: A relaxing dip


After the rinse, just set the models aside to dry out before moving on to priming the models.  Well that's about all there is to it.  Enjoy.  :D



IN CLOSING....
So if you're looking to give your old models a new lease on life, I hope this article has given you enough information and encouragement to know that its NOT difficult, or even that time consuming to do.  I can't wait to see your "new" army come to life and hear of its exploits! 


(Shameless plug: Don't forget to check out my Gnoblog to see how these models turn out.)


-- Vorgrut -- :?
How do you add your Gnoblars to your signature?
Simple Green really does work wonders, but keep in mind that some primers won't come off well at all with this method.  I've purchased "primed" models and learned just how many layers of paint really lie underneath the new primer!
-Cad
Indeed, any primer is a factor. And the amount of paint adds in too.
I have no experience with simple green - I use ethanol with great success. It seems to me that simple green (and other soap-like cleaners) are very alkaline (high pH) and hence chemically changes the paint and strips it. Ethanol is a solvent and rather removes the bonding agent between the model and paint.
In the cases with old models with A LOT of paint I would advise ethanol instead as you sometimes can literally watch the paint come off in chunks : )

But it is a very nice and picture-detailed walk-through! I like it a lot especially when dealing with rather delicate stuff like rough cleaning agents that may cause slight skin irritation and such.

Also some of the older paints are near impossible to strip - especially the reds. Any tips for those?
Gnoblar Gnoblog
Does the ethanol work on plastic models too or does it eat them?
-Cad
No problems with plastic : ) Some people* have reported softness after long time soaking (weeks) but I have only experienced a slight softness in some of the OLD plastic models, which in all fairness may have been like that before. An hour or so in undiluted ethanol should be enough to start rubbing off paint but depends on the paint too. Some of the old red paints are horrible : /


BUT resin will go soft - dont use ethanol for resin like finecast.

*Experiences from a similar thread on the Danish warhammer forum.
Gnoblar Gnoblog
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