29 May 2013
So, after returning to this hobby after around 15 years off, I had my first go at painting the other day, and after posting on this forum got some nice comments about my simple but quite affective painting methods. So after a couple of weeks of being quite busy, I've finally got time to paint a couple of models. They aren't totally completed, as I'm ashamed to say, I don't have all the paints I need to totally complete them yet. But they are as close to complete as they can be, without tiny things like eyes and red nipples :p
The colour scheme I've gone with is a dirty one, which I think suits the Ogre mentality. I've gone with a more gaunt skin tone which has a grey/green feel to it (bit more ogre like than standard flesh I reckon) rusty metals, worn gutplates (as these are standard bulls, who don't give a hoot) and generally grubby appearance. Now I'm no expert painter by any means, but I do welcome comments and tips. Like I say this is a quick painting guide to get a reasonable level of detail on a load of bulls in a short time. I think it takes me around 1 hour to complete a bull with all the drying time etc. so it's pretty quick
anyway, enough blah blah
So here goes:
Step 1 as always with virtually all my models is to undercoat them with Choas Black spray paint. (No Picture)
Step 2 is to complete two thin layers of Rakarth Flesh Colour as below;
Step 3 is to complete the remaining base coat layers, so for me on this model I chose a grey beard using Celestra Grey I believe, I coated the main section of the gutplate and the hand guard on the sword with Leadbelcher and the surrounding "brass/copper" area of the gutplate in old Tinbitz, I used Ceramite White for the ogres pupils and teeth, the same for the gnoblars head hat and the wrap around the cleaver. Then Macragge Blue for the trousers, Caliban Green for the Gnoblars head and finally all the areas that are going to be rusted metal are based with Mournfang Brown, See below;
Step 4 I complete a heavy wash of Athonian Camoshade to all fleshed areas and the wrapped handle of the cleaver of the ground, ensure all creases get a good shade to them. I usually give the areas a wash and then go over again with a light loading on my brush to get the creases shaded how I think they should be, see below:
Step 5 I complete a heavy dry brush to the rusted metal areas using the Leadbelcher paint, and also highlight the beard again using a heavy dry brush of Ceramite White. I work the Leadblecher colour on the areas that are more exposed to the elements, so points, edges and maybe scratches. I also work the Leadbelcher on the sword in the direction of impact, as thats how the rust would be removed from the blade as it cuts. Once its dry, I do another VERY light dry brush to the main areas to leave the rust looking as though its underneath the silver colour. PLEASE IGNORE THE BOOTS ON THE MODEL, THESE ARE TO BE RE-PAINTED AS I WANTED TO TRY SOMETHING USING SHADES, BUT IT DIDN'T WORK
Step 6 is to apply a light coating of Nuln Oil shade to all the areas expect the flesh parts of the model. Paying particular attention to the gut plate to dull it down, the trousers to get the creases shaded well and the rusted metal areas
Step 7 I start adding the blood to the model. I use Khorne Red for the blood, using a heavy dry brush technique on the ironfist to get it onto the pointed impact parts only. Then I use a light loading on my brush for the sword working again in the direct of the strokes of the sword to replicate the smear of blood across the blade. For the cleaver on the ground I did a light loading on my brush and sort of stippled it into the ground, but leaving enough of the black showing through, then highlighted sections around the cut on the gnoblars head. For the Bloody fist, I simply paint the forearm of the model, including his bracelet and then sweep up the arm towards the shoulder, again trying to replicate the smear of the blood up the arm.
Step 8 I then add a further medium coating of Nuln Oil shade to the blooded areas, to give a deep red colour to the creases (sorry only took one pic of this)
Step 9 Almost done now! I then (Thanks to JJ) add a highlight of Tamiya Clear Red to the blooded areas, just on the edges of swords/ironfists and fingers (basically were you think fresh blood may be) to give a bit more depth to the blood. Works very well I think. I also highlight the flesh areas with another coat of Rakarth Flesh, Now you may notice on this model that the skin has a slight pink tone to it, that was totally by accident, I didn't wash my brush out enough! (Schoolboy error I know!) but it doesn't matter as I am going to add a final light wash of Athonian Camoshade to the skin anyway, so you can't tell.
Step 10 (I got slightly carried away with completing this model so quite a bit happens in this step) I add a light drybrush to the trousers using the Rakarth Flesh colour (looks a little pink on here because of the above step) just trying to pick out wear areas showing the light and material wearing thin kind of effect. I add a second light wash of Athonian Camoshade to the main skin areas. I add a light dry brush to the gnoblars face using Rakarth Flesh (very light so the green comes through). I highlight the face areas with a very light wash of Nuln Oil. I generally go around the model highlighting or dulling down areas using either Rakarth Flesh or Nuln Oil respectively. Finally I mix a weak wash of Sotek Green (1 part Sotek Green, 6 Parts water) to add the verdigris effect to the gutplate were the copper meets the metal. I use this heavily as the weak wash dries very clear, so it may look very green to start with, but as it drys it adds lots of depth to itself.
Finally the base is finished with a coating of Ogryn Camo, followed by a heavy dry brush of Rakarth Flesh. This is then coated randomly with PVA and static grass is added.
Hey presto
Now as mentioned in the first paragraph of babble, this model isn't quite finished. I have areas that require touching up (Beard,boots, hairclip thing etc) and areas that need finishing off (eyes, hair needs more work, trouser could do with a better highlighting job) but as I've said, I haven't got all the colours I need as yet and this is more of a quick painting guide using very few colours. For my other models in my army list I will be doing lots more highlighting and shading steps, but I think for my main bulls, the detail level is more than adequate.
Hope the tutorial is of some help to some people, any questions, comments, criticisms are welcome.
Thanks!!!
The colour scheme I've gone with is a dirty one, which I think suits the Ogre mentality. I've gone with a more gaunt skin tone which has a grey/green feel to it (bit more ogre like than standard flesh I reckon) rusty metals, worn gutplates (as these are standard bulls, who don't give a hoot) and generally grubby appearance. Now I'm no expert painter by any means, but I do welcome comments and tips. Like I say this is a quick painting guide to get a reasonable level of detail on a load of bulls in a short time. I think it takes me around 1 hour to complete a bull with all the drying time etc. so it's pretty quick
anyway, enough blah blahSo here goes:
Step 1 as always with virtually all my models is to undercoat them with Choas Black spray paint. (No Picture)
Step 2 is to complete two thin layers of Rakarth Flesh Colour as below;
Step 3 is to complete the remaining base coat layers, so for me on this model I chose a grey beard using Celestra Grey I believe, I coated the main section of the gutplate and the hand guard on the sword with Leadbelcher and the surrounding "brass/copper" area of the gutplate in old Tinbitz, I used Ceramite White for the ogres pupils and teeth, the same for the gnoblars head hat and the wrap around the cleaver. Then Macragge Blue for the trousers, Caliban Green for the Gnoblars head and finally all the areas that are going to be rusted metal are based with Mournfang Brown, See below;
Step 4 I complete a heavy wash of Athonian Camoshade to all fleshed areas and the wrapped handle of the cleaver of the ground, ensure all creases get a good shade to them. I usually give the areas a wash and then go over again with a light loading on my brush to get the creases shaded how I think they should be, see below:
Step 5 I complete a heavy dry brush to the rusted metal areas using the Leadbelcher paint, and also highlight the beard again using a heavy dry brush of Ceramite White. I work the Leadblecher colour on the areas that are more exposed to the elements, so points, edges and maybe scratches. I also work the Leadbelcher on the sword in the direction of impact, as thats how the rust would be removed from the blade as it cuts. Once its dry, I do another VERY light dry brush to the main areas to leave the rust looking as though its underneath the silver colour. PLEASE IGNORE THE BOOTS ON THE MODEL, THESE ARE TO BE RE-PAINTED AS I WANTED TO TRY SOMETHING USING SHADES, BUT IT DIDN'T WORK
Step 6 is to apply a light coating of Nuln Oil shade to all the areas expect the flesh parts of the model. Paying particular attention to the gut plate to dull it down, the trousers to get the creases shaded well and the rusted metal areas
Step 7 I start adding the blood to the model. I use Khorne Red for the blood, using a heavy dry brush technique on the ironfist to get it onto the pointed impact parts only. Then I use a light loading on my brush for the sword working again in the direct of the strokes of the sword to replicate the smear of blood across the blade. For the cleaver on the ground I did a light loading on my brush and sort of stippled it into the ground, but leaving enough of the black showing through, then highlighted sections around the cut on the gnoblars head. For the Bloody fist, I simply paint the forearm of the model, including his bracelet and then sweep up the arm towards the shoulder, again trying to replicate the smear of the blood up the arm.
Step 8 I then add a further medium coating of Nuln Oil shade to the blooded areas, to give a deep red colour to the creases (sorry only took one pic of this)
Step 9 Almost done now! I then (Thanks to JJ) add a highlight of Tamiya Clear Red to the blooded areas, just on the edges of swords/ironfists and fingers (basically were you think fresh blood may be) to give a bit more depth to the blood. Works very well I think. I also highlight the flesh areas with another coat of Rakarth Flesh, Now you may notice on this model that the skin has a slight pink tone to it, that was totally by accident, I didn't wash my brush out enough! (Schoolboy error I know!) but it doesn't matter as I am going to add a final light wash of Athonian Camoshade to the skin anyway, so you can't tell.
Step 10 (I got slightly carried away with completing this model so quite a bit happens in this step) I add a light drybrush to the trousers using the Rakarth Flesh colour (looks a little pink on here because of the above step) just trying to pick out wear areas showing the light and material wearing thin kind of effect. I add a second light wash of Athonian Camoshade to the main skin areas. I add a light dry brush to the gnoblars face using Rakarth Flesh (very light so the green comes through). I highlight the face areas with a very light wash of Nuln Oil. I generally go around the model highlighting or dulling down areas using either Rakarth Flesh or Nuln Oil respectively. Finally I mix a weak wash of Sotek Green (1 part Sotek Green, 6 Parts water) to add the verdigris effect to the gutplate were the copper meets the metal. I use this heavily as the weak wash dries very clear, so it may look very green to start with, but as it drys it adds lots of depth to itself.
Finally the base is finished with a coating of Ogryn Camo, followed by a heavy dry brush of Rakarth Flesh. This is then coated randomly with PVA and static grass is added.
Hey presto
Now as mentioned in the first paragraph of babble, this model isn't quite finished. I have areas that require touching up (Beard,boots, hairclip thing etc) and areas that need finishing off (eyes, hair needs more work, trouser could do with a better highlighting job) but as I've said, I haven't got all the colours I need as yet and this is more of a quick painting guide using very few colours. For my other models in my army list I will be doing lots more highlighting and shading steps, but I think for my main bulls, the detail level is more than adequate.
Hope the tutorial is of some help to some people, any questions, comments, criticisms are welcome.
Thanks!!!
