Resin models + citadel glue = stupid.

As the title suggests, Resin models are stupid. So is the citadel plastic glue. The firebelly head/fire/arm is the most stupid though. Damn thing won't fit unless you hold it together really hard, and glue never dries :S

Just wanted to get this out of my head.

$@!# resin is stupid.

Regards
Danne

P.S. So are hobby knives. Ouch.

Solvent glue ONLY works on polystyrene!!!  Acts by melting the base plastic and actually fusing it together.

You need superglue for the resin models, works well.

GW glue + anything is stupid. If it wouldn't smell so horrible one could think it is actually water with a drop of something sticky in it. 
Is your head with the flame bent? Mine was as well, but with my industrial glue it was no problem to force it to fit... you could also lay it in hot water (or head the part otherwise) and bend it until it fits.

But still I have to agree with you, I do not like Finecast either. (Resin in general is great, I like my bases and my Ettin, it is really just Finecast)

Edit: Oh wait...well, you have to use Super Glue for Resin. It is similar to plastic, but usual plastic glue won't work with it!

You could try Tamaya cement.  I THINK it's a plastic glue, but it's damn strong and effective.  I haven't had a chance to build resin stuff myself yet so can't say for sure.

You may as well be using white glue for as much as plastic cement is ever going to do for you on a Finecast model...

Like mentioned above, cyanoacrylate all the way. I don't even bother with plastic glue.

Oh, jest realized GW sells super glue aswell -.- sometimes they are dumb. I don't want to be forced to buy 3 different types of glue for my hobby

Regards
Danne

I know I may get branded a heretic for this, but I glue EVERYTHING with superglue, even soft plastics. Why? Well I often like to cannibalize my models once I'm done using army, or if I just decide I want it to represent something else, and a small dab of superglue breaks off nicely if I want to remove bits. Additionally if I drop one (which I do) they tend only to break along the brittle superglue lines rather than bend anything important.

I find GW's super glue to be crap, honestly. For a good while I was using Loctite Gel, comes in a fancy blue/grey bottle and costs a mint. Then I smartened up and went "Wait, I can buy super glue at the Dollar Store." And so I did.

Now I get gel super glue for a buck a tube, 3/5s the amount of Loctite I was getting for 1/7th the price. I think it's a pretty decent deal.

I know I may get branded a heretic for this, but I glue EVERYTHING with superglue, even soft plastics. Why? Well I often like to cannibalize my models once I'm done using army, or if I just decide I want it to represent something else, and a small dab of superglue breaks off nicely if I want to remove bits. Additionally if I drop one (which I do) they tend only to break along the brittle superglue lines rather than bend anything important.

I also use super glue for similar reasons, for example I just finished changing 8 of my ogre bulls into leadbelchers ( I had the cannons from the old batallion boxes, I just never used them because leadbelchers used to be terrible).

"Wait, I can buy super glue at the Dollar Store."

Damn straight, it all sticks the same!

I'e modelled with resin before and always used superglue (Yay Poundland!) but not yet tried Finecast figs, though hae to add at least a Firebelly at some point!

I remember trying polycement on the Old Warzone Bauhaus and Imperial armies and being truly frustrated until I used superglue...

i used cyanoacrylate on finecast, and didnt have any issue with dry time (i use some 5-15 secs glue), and its super solid, despite the fact that this firebelly arms is a pretty bad fit.

I found out that using plastic glue on a resin model will not work, the hard way. It took me forever to glue together my cockatrice.After that I learned to use superglue.

Damn straight, it all sticks the same!

They even have gel stuff. Sure, it's not quite as "gel" as the Loctite stuff...but...3/5s glue, 1/7th price. That trumps a lot of things. When I can go buy a bucketful of glue for the same price as one tube of other stuff...I'll manage, somehow.

I have a big bottle of GW stuff here that just refuses to stick anything. It's awful. I even tried to use it to glue the magnet sheet onto my bases. Put glue on, add magnet, wait (seriously) an hour...it's still completely wet. Grab the Loctite, and it's cured in 1 minute. No idea what's wrong with the GW stuff, but it sucks.

Agreed, GW glues are $h*!.  I will wait until I get home to put things together. 
But here are some of what HAS worked...

I have used Testors Model Glue, but with a twist... 

****  DISCLAIMER****  I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANYONE CATCHING THEMSELVES OR THEIR HOUSE ON FIRE!!!
DO THIS IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA AND ONLY IF YOUR ARE 18 OR OLDER!!!   (hope that will do??)

Put a little on each part that you want to glue together, light it on fire for a split second, blow it out and stick it together quickly.  Hold the parts together for a few seconds, and they should be stuck.  sounds a bit iffy, and there are those who will call me crazy, but it works very well on metal models. Greater Demon wings especially.  It dries the glue quickly and helps adhear the glue to the pieces and to itself. 

I only use Insta-Cure, super thin.  Small bottle for less than $3 and  lasts for more than a battalion box, even VC.  Onset time of .5 to 2 seconds.  Thinner than water.  Works great on metal and  plastic.  I've picked up Skragg by one of the gnoblars on the pot just 5 minutes after attatching them.  Completed Terrorgeist at the shop had wing tip snapped off.  Little drop of the glue, counted to 10, and was picking up the model by the part that was broken off.  And if you want to snap off  your Bull's arms and replace them witht the cannon arms, there isn't that much glue to cut through.  Keep it covered, it dries quickly.  If the pieces aren't sticking together, you probably have too much glue on; dab some of it off with a paper napkin.  Be VERY VERY carefull when using this.  Keep nailpolish remover handy if you glue your fingers together (almost every time I used it at first) or scrape it off with a DULL hobby knife.

I haven't done any resin anything yet...  Is it porus?  If so, put a little white glue on very thinly and let it dry completely.  This SHOULD plug up any holes and allow "your favorite glue" to work.

Hope you found something in my babbling helpful.

GutChef

This thread has inspired me to decide:  "Screw it.  super glue ALL DA MINIS!!!!"

O yeah, a quick tip for when using super glue.  Go to your local pharmacy and get a box of those stupid plastic surgical gloves.

Use it while sticking minis and don't worry if you stick your fingers to each other.  When done, take of the gloves and throw it away.

Hospitals have a reason for throwing it away other than Hygiene, because it's dirt cheap as well.

Hehe, seems like we all agree I must say though, I've found the GW plastic blue to be awesome for my regular plastic models, but it seems as I'll have to get some super glue not sure where I can find cyanoacrylate in sweden though

O yeah, a quick tip for when using super glue.  Go to your local pharmacy and get a box of those stupid plastic surgical gloves.

Use it while sticking minis and don't worry if you stick your fingers to each other.  When done, take of the gloves and throw it away.

Hospitals have a reason for throwing it away other than Hygiene, because it's dirt cheap as well.

I'll second this. I've used some crazy glues earlier, and those gloves are to be prefered. Also, I prefer to get tight gloves, as I can handle greenstuff with them without leaving fingerprints (realized that about 10 minutes after I finished my first conversion. I also realized that you have to use tools - only used my hands).

Regards
Danne

Well, gloves are not really necessary. I use Loctite 495, glue that is so strong that I never had to pin a model (and I have both a hydra and Baudros...and many, many more metal models  ) ... works just fine for Finecast as well. If you really get glue on your fingers, rub them very fast against each other or on any other surface. The glue heats up, that's the exothermic reaction of it. By rubbing you prevent sticking together and the glue hardens on the skin. Just cut or file it away then. 

May I ask how you avoided to use Super Glue until now? Never bought anything else than plastic? Not meant to be offensive, I'm just curious! (Because I used Super Glue for years before buying my first plastic glue... )

May I ask how you avoided to use Super Glue until now? Never bought anything else than plastic? Not meant to be offensive, I'm just curious! (Because I used Super Glue for years before buying my first plastic glue... )

Maybe slightly irrelevant

I've used super glue before of course, but not for my WH hobby. Turns out we only have contact adhesive at home at the moment, so that's why I said "I have to get some superglue"

Answered your question?

Well, gloves are not really necessary. I use Loctite 495, glue that is so strong that I never had to pin a model (and I have both a hydra and Baudros...and many, many more metal models  ) ... works just fine for Finecast as well. If you really get glue on your fingers, rub them very fast against each other or on any other surface. The glue heats up, that's the exothermic reaction of it. By rubbing you prevent sticking together and the glue hardens on the skin. Just cut or file it away then. 

Well, sometimes it's nice to be on the safer side. Also, having to rub your fingers like that could be really distracting if you're holding a model I have issues with doing anything else when I glue.

Main reason I like gloves though is for GS work - fingerprints are not that sexy.

Regards
Danne

not sure where I can find cyanoacrylate in sweden though

Right, went to a local store today to buy some glue. When I got there, from reading on the back of a glue bottle, I realized "cyanoacrylate" translates to super glue in jibberish

Now my firebelly is fully assembled, took me about 3 minutes with the new glue.

Thanks for the replies

Regards
Danne

With some of the fine cast minis I have been using gorilla glue. I know that's kind of frowned upon, but I find that it's much better for holding resin models to their bases. I sometimes use it in the joints, but only when I am absolutely certain that I can hold/clamp it tight enough that the glue won't over expand and screw up the positioning.

i cant recall the name of it, but my friend lent me his superglue and an accelerator. ive just gotten back into this and WOW! put glue on, one drop of accelerator and its done! so easy!

ill find out what its called, if you like?

I use the supermarket's cheapest super glue - dries to a nice hold in a few seconds (so I can paint) and dries to a very strong binding over night. Works on all materials. That it doesn't dry rock solid within moments means I can bend it around a weak joint, eliminating gaps without leaving a trace and make a more secure binding as I go. It can even be painted on with an old brush. It won't stick to the hairs so it's easily removed when dry - I just pull it off like a small cap. I have, however, found that it (s?)melts resin quite quickly for some reason 
Not much, just a thin layer..

i cant recall the name of it, but my friend lent me his superglue and an accelerator. ive just gotten back into this and WOW! put glue on, one drop of accelerator and its done! so easy!

ill find out what its called, if you like?

To be honest I kin of allready solved the problem using superglue only, but sure, if you want

Regards
Danne

accelerator usually makes the glue stick less tho.