post paint construction? help?

help, i'm thinking the only way to do a reasonable paint job on my ironblaster is to paint all the bits seaperatly (eg cannon, horns, rhinox, platform.)

ok, so that fine but what do I use to stick it back together when im done??

iv seen that most of the best painters even leave hands/weapons off models till after the paint job but Shirley plastic glue wouldn't stick, supergle would leave white marks and pva wouldn't hold well enough.

id guess PVA but ???

I'm in the same boat with my blaster.  Any tips or tricks would be awesome

I assembled the whole platform with one horn attached, leaving one horn, the rhinox, the cannon, the guardplate, and the ogre individually assembled. Painted everything, then plastic glue works fine in sticking such large pieces together.

I don't know if you are looking into buying a new plastic glue, but Tamiya (the model kit manufacturer) has a glue called Tamiya Cement that works fine on painted plastics. It's what I use.

Try dry fit it all by using pinning, then after its painted simply glue the pins into place on it all, no mess just abit of work.
If you are not familiar with how to pin let me know and I'll explain,
TLK!

The easiest way is to simply scratch off the pain in the contact areas. Plastic glue works by essentially melting the plastic so you want plastic against plastic for a strong bond.

Just don't paint the bits you need to glue. If you need to you can  cover them in tape or blue tack then peel off and glue

Just don't paint the bits you need to glue. If you need to you can  cover them in tape or blue tack then peel off and glue

The easiest way is to simply scratch off the pain in the contact areas. Plastic glue works by essentially melting the plastic so you want plastic against plastic for a strong bond.

This is the way to go.
I also like to score the contact points with a modelling knife, seems to create a better bond without using excessive plastic glue.

I don't know if you are looking into buying a new plastic glue, but Tamiya (the model kit manufacturer) has a glue called Tamiya Cement that works fine on painted plastics. It's what I use.

I would be interested in  trying this to see how it works though.

Try dry fit it all by using pinning, then after its painted simply glue the pins into place on it all, no mess just abit of work.
If you are not familiar with how to pin let me know and I'll explain,
TLK!

i'm not familiar, so yes, please explain or point to the proper forum thread.

i just use plastic glue...paint on paint! I just make sure i'm careful and don't use excess glue that will spread out from where i'm gluing!

also, gluing...strange word when written down!

Why not use regular Cyanoacrylate glue?

i just use plastic glue...paint on paint! I just make sure i'm careful and don't use excess glue that will spread out from where i'm gluing!

also, gluing...strange word when written down!

I concur... I painted my SM Drop Pod as separate pieces (and painted every surface). It glued together just fine using the plastic glue.

i'm not familiar, so yes, please explain or point to the proper forum thread.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQTsyEqr9tM

Is alot quicker and easier with plastic minatures, and if you leave the pin long enough sometimes it dosen't even need glue so you can do head/hand swaps.

Hope this helps, TLK

Why not use regular Cyanoacrylate glue?

The issue there is you're only really gluing the two painted layers together - which means the bond is only as strong as the paint adhesion to the plastic.  Might be fine for small things but a bit risky for little joins on bigger items.  Plus you lose one of main the benefits of plastic cement/glue - being that it melts the plastic and when the plastic re-polymerises you just get plastic (rather than an actual layer of glue being responsible for the attachment).

I'd aways go with masking the join area, or carefully scraping the paint off where I need to and using polystyrene cement.  You can often get away with using polystyrene cement (or plastic glue, whatever you prefer to call it) over paint as has been stated.  This is because it's not really a glue, but a solvent that melts the plastic.  It's also strong enough to melt the paint slightly.  However this means your join is actually much smaller than it appears as the plastic reforms around the little bits of paint, making it weaker than plastic on plastic.  Just depends on how good you want/need you join to be.